"I look like a Pilgrim"

Finally getting the hang of Jerusalem and ready to call this city home. The last week has seen a increase in tension between the Arab and Jewish communities because of the arrest of two Palestinian legislators who were protesting against the Israeli government after Israel made comments condemning Sheikh Muhammad Hussein. Sheikh Muhammad Hussein made comments that all Muslims should "fight and kill Jews." So since I live in East Jerusalem security has made an even larger presence. The protests are so contained by the Israeli government I can only hear the sirens but I have yet to see them. 

A bomb was diffused on Benya Hoodah Street earlier this week. It was really weird for me to hear this but my roommates reassured me it happens all the time. I don't know if this is supposed to make me feel better or worse but I still  went to Benya Hoodah many times this week. It is really interesting how every day there are so many threats yet no one here acts like they live in fear. The Israeli government is good at what they do. They racial profile like no other and they do not need probable cause to search anyone. If you leave your backpack unattended it will be taken as a bomb threat and destroyed. But needless to say I have felt very safe here. 

We went out on Thursday to Benya Hoodah where the street was full of students and Israeli soldiers. Because Israel is so small soldiers can come home on the weekends or at least go to Jerusalem. I sat beside a solider on the light rail who explained tours were only a couple of weeks then you get to come home for a week. He was in the engineering section of the army and was heading to the Syria border next week to diffuse bombs. I managed to teach a couple of boys how to shag even though they won't play any beach music! As usual it was a fun night and we met a lot of people. 

Friday my friend Marissa and I went to an Orthodox Familie's house for Shabbat dinner. We had to dress like we were Amish. We both wore long skirts, tights and long sleeves. The parents moved to Israel from America about 12 years ago. They have 5 children all under 8 years old. They live in a 2 bedroom apartment. The Father does not work but studies the Torah everyday and the mother takes care of the house and the children. We arrived before sundown so everyone was running around trying to prepare. I expected the kids to be very reverent and well behaved but nope. It does not matter your religion or beliefs, 5 children under the age of 8 is only a recipe for chaos. The father was most definitely in control of his wife and family. My friend Marissa is Jewish and it was obvious they were trying to show their lifestyle off so that maybe she might want to become Orthodox. Orthodox Jews always try to 'convert' American Jews to move to Israel and live an Orthodox lifestyle. Needless to say after seeing 5 kids and having to dress like a pilgrim neither one of us is interested in turning Orthodox. It was really neat to have a real Shabbat dinner with the prayers, hallah and all Kosher food. The food was delicious and the family was very open to all our questions. We learned about the rules of Shabbat including not doing dishes after dinner. It was an amazing experience to see an Orthodox home and enjoy Shabbat dinner. 

The Shuk has become my favorite place! I go almost every other day. I have my pita mad, my olive man and my flower man. All who already know me and I've only been here for 2 weeks! All the food is so fresh and delicious. Yesterday Jacki and I were walking through the Shuk and came to the back of a bakery. The men inside let us come inside and watch them make hundreds of fresh hallah. It smelled AMAZING! It was so fun to watch them twist all the dough into hallah. Next time we go I'm going to learn how to make hallah. 

It was a busy and exciting week and I still have lots of places to go and discover! 

xoxo,

Katy Ann 

The Red Zone

A beautiful day in Jerusalem! Blue skies, warm and you can see Jordan in the horizon! The last few days have been a bit chilly so I was glad to see the nice weather when I woke up this morning. The city is back up and running post Shabbot and attempting to learn Hebrew is in full swing. 

Hebrew is my biggest challenge. After three hours of Hebrew everyday my brain feels like mush. But I am improving so hopefully I will be able to speak some by the time I leave. We switch teachers every few days to keep you on your toes so you won't get used to a learning style. I hate that part because I want to get used to a teaching style! Anyway Hebrew is still Hebrew and I still can hardly read a word. 

Yesterday after Ulpan my friend Marissa and I wanted an adventure! We decided to walk and follow the light rail path to the Old City. This became quite an adventure. Taking in all the beautiful sites of the city we started to see poorer sections. Buildings had been bombed and it needed a major clean up. But we continued because we wanted to go to the Old City. After awhile we realized it was an Arab section, more importantly East Jerusalem. When the flags go from Israeli to Islam you enter "The Red Zone."  We had been warned to be careful in this section but not entirely forbidden and so we continued forward. Security forces refer to this section of town as the Red Zone but it is not really a major issue. But either way two American girls power walked through trying to figure out where we were. We saw a United Nations van, my first thought was "So cool a real UN car" but it was a working UN car used to help keep peace. It reminded us that this is still a dangerous place. But we finally made to the Damascus Gate of the Old City. This gate leads into the Arab quarter. We wondered for hours up and down alley ways taking in the scenery. Bought falafel in the Arab quarter (they have the best) and wondered into the Christian and Jewish quarters. Last time I was in the Old City just a few days before I could not tell a difference between the Arab and Jewish quarter but yesterday the moment we crossed over I immediately knew. It is amazing how aware of the divide I have become after only being here for a week. Needless to say we had an amazing adventure UN car and all! 

Every citizen, boy and girl is required to serve in the Army in Israel. So most people I have met my age have been in the army. The only people allowed to carry guns in Israel are those serving in the Army and Israeli's that live in settlements. Israeli soldiers carry their guns everywhere when they are on active duty. So in the market or restaurant people in regular clothes are carrying M-16's. M-16's are the hottest accessory in Israel. 

The food has been delicious! Hummus is to Israel as ketchup is to America. People put it on everything, eggs, pita, pasta and anything else. So if you like hummus this is the place to be. 

I love Israel and I have already learned a lot about the city. Yesterday someone asked us for directions! I'm really becoming one of the locals! I've figured out the train system and how things work. I'm really getting settled into the Israeli lifestyle. 

Last night we went to the Shok party. It is every Monday night where the alley ways of the market become a dance floor. A little bit strange but still a lot of fun. It was very Israeli because only in Israel would they turn a market into a club.

Israel is becoming home more and more everyday. 

xoxo

Katy Ann 

PS. Uploaded pictures to shutter fly http://searcyk.shutterfly.com/ 

Shabbat Shalom

I'm sitting in my room looking over that golden city of Jerusalem eating fresh strawberries that are huge. I live on the 9th floor of my building and so the view is gorgeous and I can see all over the city. All the food here is very fresh. Most Israelis go to the market everyday and buy what they need for the day.

I am still working on my Hebrew and going to Ulpan. I am so bad at Hebrew I can't get the "ch" (aka something stuck in your throat sound) at all, plus they have different types of those sounds. I just sound like I'm having  a weird coughing fit when I try to use them. But hopefully the longer I am here the better I will get. 

My friends and I have started to do 'family dinners' for dinner every night. Instead of all cooking alone we all cook together and eat together. It is really fun all working together Kibbutz style! We have no oven so we have to get creative on what we can cook. 

Jerusalem is a crazy city at night. All the International students flooded Bendahooda Street. Bendahooda is the place to be at night, lined with clubs and bars. We met tons of Israelis and had a great night learning the ropes of the night life. 

Orthodox Jews try to recruit American Jews to move to Israel and become more religious and they do this by coming to parties. We were all hanging out in an apartment and an Orthodox man walks in hat, beard and all. I was of course quite confused why this man with a beard was here but everyone else didn't mind so I joined in the party. A really strange concept and not the way Christians get converts, but hey maybe they should change their game too!

Shabbat starts at sundown Friday and goes until sundown Saturday. A city of almost a million people becomes silent. No cars or buses on the streets. All the shops close and most people don't leave their homes. It is the Jewish day of rest. Jewish people are not supposed to do anything, even from turning on lights or tearing toilet paper. I have already been on my computer, opened doors and used toilet paper so I am not keeping Shabbat. We went to Shabbat dinner last night hosted by the school. They have a mini lesson about some part of the Torah some prayers and then food. I am hoping to go to Shabbot and someones home, I just have to play Jewish so an orthodox family will take me in for dinner.  

We went to the Shuk (market) right before Shabbat and everyone was crazy! Running around trying to get ready before sundown. Pita and Hollah bread was being thrown left to right while Orthodox Jews were giving you candles. I love the Shuk so much excitement and you get to see the real lifestyles of the Israelis. Plus its like whole foods sampling on crack. Yesterday I bought a bag of pastries for 7 shekels so about $2 in the US. And i bought beautiful fresh flowers to brighten my room! The pomegranates are so yummy! We caught the train back luckily because it was the last train before Shabbot. You say "Shabbat Shalom" to wish everyone a good Shabbat which is my favorite phrase because I have mastered the pronunciation. 

I've only been here for a few days and it already feels like a home to me. I'm adjusting both to Israeli culture and Jewish culture, learning all about the millions of Holidays in the Jewish faith. Well Shalom Shabbat Y'all, rest up! 

xoxo 

Katy Ann 

Hebrew with a Southern Drawl

I don't consider myself to have a strong country accent because I grew up with people who have thick Southern drawls. But here I sound like Hilly Billy Sue! My Israeli roommates just stare in awe when I speak and my friends from around the US love to hear me speak. But speaking Hebrew with my accent is so hard. Well Hebrew is hard to start with!

I started Ulpan yesterday which is an intensive Hebrew study for 4 weeks. My teacher does not speak any English in class, because it is an international school. Students are from all over the world attend, so English would not be useful to most. Most students at Rothberg went to Hebrew School (Kinda like Jewish Sunday School where they learn Hebrew) so I am the most inexperienced at the language. Actually I knew nothing. Hebrew is made up of scribbles, dots and lines. It is written with no vowels, although spoken with vowels (very complicated). I had no idea what was going on the first 3 hours of Ulpan. When my teacher handed out worksheets I started filling mine in upside down, I did not even know which way to start. Hebrew is written right to left. Notebooks are made with the spiral on the other side as in the US. I thought this was so funny but no one else seemed to think it was a big deal. Each letter has two symbols, script and block. It is so hard and with my Southern accent makes things a little difficult. I hope I can master a little Hebrew by the time I leave but it is going to be so hard. 

Jerusalem really is a golden city. I live on the 9th floor and have a beautiful view of the city. My campus is located in East Jerusalem all around us is disputed land. Some Arab some Jewish settlements. I can see the West Bank from my classroom window only about a mile away. Israel has put up huge walls around the West Bank Arab settlements. It really is so different than the US. Since I live near an Arab neighborhood, I was awoken the past 2 days by the Muslim prayer call at 5am not something I was expecting living in a Jewish state. 

Everywhere you go you see Israeli security holding M-16's securing every place. It is a little weird getting used to but actually makes me feel safer. It is so weird how close everything is together. Arab and Jewish settlements are on top of each other. You hear about the issues in the news but you don't really understand how close everything is until you see Israel. 

Israel is so unique it is different than anywhere else I have ever traveled. It is hard to explain an ancient  city with so many distinct cultures so close together. But not just distinct cultures but threatened. Both the Jewish and Arabs feel threatened and they both are. Between the guns being carried and the huge fences you can see this is not a friendly place. Yet you don't feel hostility coming from people. Between each other or to me a blonde American just trying to find my way around. 

After my second day of Ulpan (which I still have no clue what is going on) My new friends and I headed for the old city. AMAZING! It is 5,000 years old and people still work and live within the walls. It is mesmerizing walking the streets. We wondered through the Arab and Jewish sections. We arrived at the Wailing Wall and my breath was taken away. I get it now. I get why people fight over this amazing place. I'm not even Jewish and I was moved by the atmosphere around. A group of new soldiers who just finished training were taking the oath of allegiance in front of the Wailing Wall. I stood beside a proud momma of her son being sworn in today! It was such an amazing experience and only my 3rd day here! After placing a prayer in the wall and seeing all the young men and women honor their country and heritage, it really was an overwhelming emotional experience. 

After walking all over the Old City we headed to the Soku (outdoor market) to do some grocery shopping. The vegetables and fruit are HUGE! I bought 2 pomegranates for 6 shekels equaling about $2 in America. Anything not imported is really cheap but imported stuff like cereal (about $8 for one box) is very expensive! Since Israel doesn't trade with their neighbors imported goods are very high. I also bought a heater for my room! No heat in this freezing cold stone building was killing me, but I am so excited to sleep in the warmth. The Soku was so fun! An elder Israeli man bought me some olives to try, while I tried to heckle down my eggs. The blonde hair really gave me away in the market but at least I got free olives! 

In 3 days I have learned and experienced so much. I've learned about Jewish, Israeli and Arab culture! It is an unbelievable experience!

xoxo

Katy Ann 

Change

It is 6 am Jerusalem time and I've been up since 5am, jet lag is no fun at all. The past few days of traveling have been a roller coaster of emotions. From excitement to nervousness to scared, I've covered about all of them. 

My first major accomplishment of my trip was making it through El Al security. I was questioned over and over then more and more then again and again. I thought I was never going to be let on that plane. El Al openly profiles and asked questions from your religion to your studies to your family. It was intimidating but worth the safety of the flight. 

My flight was an uneventful 10 hours. A birthright trip was also on our plane so lots of students. Mid flight a group of Jewish men did their daily prayers. about 20 men gathered at the back of the plane and sang, chanted and prayed together. It was very different then a US flight where everyone would have been staring. In this case I was the only one staring, trying to figure out why they were singing so loudly! It was just the beginning of the Israeli world. 

After arriving in Tel Aviv we loaded onto buses and drove to Jerusalem. A beautiful drive. Israel is beautiful a combination of palm tress, beaches, desert, mountains and valleys. It is lush yet in the middle of a desert. Settlements are all over the banks of the valley. Both Arab and Jewish settlements. You can tell if they are Arab because they have large black barrels to collect water from. Since Arab settlements are not part of Israel, the Israeli government does not provide water to these settlements. Just my first taste of the tension in the region. You really can feel the tension here between Arabs and Jewish communities. Just a little bit from campus is an Arab neighborhood that we have been advised not to travel too. 

Speaking of security my apartment is very different from the US. My blinds are made of metal that come down and protect the window. One of the rooms becomes a bomb shelter is needed. The door and walls are a lot thinker and it is equipped with a one way filtration system. I had no idea what this was but apparently it is needed for a bomb shelter. 

I have 4 roommates. Two Israeli boys, an American boy and American girl. I was quite surprised when I arrived to find out I was in a co-ed apartment but they seem fun and nice. I have my own room and we all share a commons area. My room is very plain but I went shopping for bedding and found a pink quilt that made it much better. My apartment does not have heat and the building is made of stone. I was freezing so I slept in my sleeping bag under my quilt. 

Everything here is secure. To get into the mall you go through a metal detector and your bag is x-rayed. You can not get onto Hebrew University's campus without a student ID. And you have to go through security to get through the gate. We went on a tour of campus yesterday. It was beautiful. HU is on top of Mt Scopus so you have some of the best views of the city. At on part you can see all the way to Jordan and the Dead Sea. It is really weird how close everything is together. 

I would describe Israelis as aggressive. Not unkind just aggressive. Everything is very efficient and useful. If you just stand in line you will be passed you have to push and stand your ground. It is taking me quite a bit to get used to this. No 'excuse me' just a nudge to move aside. Very different from the South. 

Trying to buy everyday supplies was hard. I could not figure out what laundry detergent was what. Was I buying bleach or fabric softener or shampoo? It seemed like an easy task that took way longer than expected. For one thing Hebrew is so different from English you can't tell at all what you're reading. So staring at hundreds of bottles trying to use clues from the picture on the bottle to figure out what you are buying. Hopefully I bought laundry detergent but I will have to wait and see how my clothes turn out. 

A major challenge about being abroad is how simple things become such a task. For instance showering. You have to turn the heater on to heat your water 30 minutes before then turn the heat on in the bathroom. Then you have about 5 minutes in the shower before the hot water runs out. All while trying to translate Hebrew from your shampoo bottle to make sure you are washing your hair with shampoo and not laundry detergent. After a while I'm sure this won't be an issue at all but right now all the change is a lot to digest. 

Israel is different then I thought it would be but I have only been here for 2 days and I've already learned a ton! It is scary and new. I'm trying to adjust as quickly and smoothly as possible. I've already met some great people (all Jewish). I've never heard the word Gentile used in casual conversation until now. But as one of the few Gentiles at HU I am already learning. Tomorrow is a new day with lots to learn and do! New people to meet, foods to try and places to go!

xoxo, 

Katy Ann 

ps. my blog is now in Hebrew and I don't know how to change is back! Any suggestions That is why the typing is off?

I'm leaving on a Jet Plane

Only two more days until I bid my farewells and head to the Holy Land. Everyone has given me advice on how to stay safe in Israel. Here are a couple of my favorites:

Mrs. McKinney (MK's momma) said "Run, duck and weave"

My Uncle Dean said "The safety for an AK-47 is different from an M-16"

My Grandma, Mamal said "Don't leave your room"

Although safety seems to be everyone else's biggest worry, my biggest challenge is packing. I am allowed one suitcase and one backpack for 6 months. After trying to decide what to pack all Christmas break I finally had everything ready. Then Mommy and I started to put my stuff into the suitcase. It would not even begin to all fit. After a few stressful hours of trying to be engineers we switched to a bigger suitcase and finally managed to get all the essentials under the 50 pounds weight limit.  

My flight leaves from Newark on Sunday and flies directly to Tel Aviv, about a 12 hour flight. I am flying El Al and so security will be tight. I'm a little nervous about security because I have traveled to Egypt and Turkey, both not very friendly with Israel. Also I am not Jewish or Middle Eastern Studies so it is quite confusing why I would want to spend a semester in Israel. 

My other biggest challenge is Hebrew. Since I grew up in Western North Carolina I never attended Hebrew School or for that matter knew anyone who was Jewish until I was a junior in high school. I traveled to Ghana and met Sydney and Jamie who became some of my best friends and were both Jewish. After attending Rosh Hashanah with Sydney and attending Sydney's sister Morgan's Bat Mitzvah I was hooked on Jewish culture. Hence why I am spending a semester in Israel. 

I know 4 words in Hebrew so far. 

Mavel Tov- meaning congratulations 

L'chaim- translating "to life" aka cheers 

Shalom- peace/hello/goodbye 

Falafel- not quite Hebrew but it will probably be a staple food in my life

My Hebrew needs some work before hitting the streets of Jerusalem solo but maybe my couple of words will keep me afloat for the first couple of weeks. 

I am beyond excited to finally start my adventure. Of course I will miss my family, friends, dog and BBQ but the new experiences I will have may just make up for all the things I will miss. I am excited and nervous! Ready to travel 6245 miles from home!

xoxo,

Katy Ann