March 31, 2012

Nascar and Diamonds


Pesach break has finally come and I started my first day with a whirl wind tour of the North. Dena, Candace and I loaded a tour bus at 6am and started our day. We headed first to Caesarea one of the cities used by the Romans. We toured lots of ruins and saw an ancient theatre where concerts are still performed. It was beautiful right along the coast of the Mediterranean Sea. The water was bright blue! We saw a bunch of IDF soldiers touring also and playing games. As part of their first year they tour parts of the country. It was funny to see a group of soldiers holding M-16's playing camp games. 

We loaded back upon our tour bus and headed for Rosh Hanikra which is the Northern most point in Israel. Rosh Hanikra borders Lebanon, so they border was fenced with security and barb wire. We took a cable car down to the sea to see the Grottos. The grottos are beautiful caves where the Mediterranean Sea has carved out the sandstone and left brilliant colors and caves. Then we headed to Acre an Arab village that is along the coast. The town has lots of history from the Crusader period and so we walked the ancient tunnels used by the crusaders. Finally we headed towards Haifa to see the Bahai Gardens. The Bahai Gardens are a place of worship for the Bahia religion. I had never even heard of the Bahai religion but the gardens were beautiful. Along a hill they have perfectly symmetrical grass, trees and flowers. Finally we loaded the bus and headed back to Jerusalem. A long and busy day but I was glad I went because it was great to see so much and be able to decide what I want to spend more time seeing. 

I had Shabbat Dinner plans and we were running late. So I convinced my bus driver to speed all the way back to Jerusalem. Israeli drivers are known to be crazy and drive fast but this was Nascar. We were flying around curves and not stopping for anyone. I was in the back yelling, "Yella Yella" (meaning: quickly, quickly). Dena and I were grabbing the seats and each other praying we would make it alive to Shabbat Dinner at one point. When I finally arrived home my knuckles and face were completely white. After participating in the Daytona 500 Israeli style I made it to my Shabbat dinner in one piece and on time. 

Marissa and I were set up for a Shabbat dinner with a family like we do a lot of Friday nights. Their home would have been large for US standards and for Israeli standards it was enormous. The father worked in the diamond industry and by the beautiful home you could tell. We sat down for dinner at a huge table set with crystal, fine china and silver. Mem would have been so proud as I not only knew which fork to use for which course and which glass to use for which drink but I also helped Marissa. The family had ten children although only 3 were there because the others were older and lived all over the world. Near the end of dinner the son snuck out to meet his friends. It was so funny and nice to see a real family who was religious but also realistic. But the family was a blast and the dinner was delicious. It was after midnight when I got home and I crashed. 

Saturday morning we headed for the West Bank. Yesterday was Land Day which commemorates the day Israel took a lot of land from Palestine. And so yesterday there were tons of protests and a lot of supports rushing the border of Israel. I left East Jerusalem so I did not see any action except the pictures some of my friends took. Anyway we decided to go to the West Bank after everything had calmed down. We took the Arab bus to Ramallah and then caught a cab to Jericho. Jericho is the oldest city in the world. The city was average and very dirty. But we took a cable car to a Monastery high in the cliffs of the desert. It was absolutely breathing taking. The Monastery was built into the mountain and the views were amazing. It is supposedly where Jesus went in the desert or 40 days to be tempted by the devil. It was a Greek Orthodox church so I was not fond of the decorations. But the Monastery was beautifully built into the mountain and rock. Afterwards we walked around the city before heading back. Of course we went in a check point on the way back into Israel and I realized my apartment is only about 5 minutes from the West Bank. I knew it was close I just had not realized it was so close. 

So far Pesach break has been a blast! Tomorrow I start a hike the "Yam le Yam" trail. It is the "Sea to Sea" trail! Starting at the Mediterranean and ending at the Sea of Galilee. It is four days and I am both excited and nervous. I am not exactly the greatest fan of hiking and nature but I am sure it will be a beautiful four days. 

Shabbat Shalom! 

xoxo, 

Katy Ann 

March 29, 2012

Visitors


This week has been pretty low key as everyone finishes up with midterms and is getting ready for Pesach break. Pesach Break is Spring Break but for Passover. Marissa's brother Jonathan and his girlfriend Gabby came to visit this week. Friday night we took them to a Shabbat dinner at the Jerusalem Soul Center. The Jerusalem Soul Center is very unconventional and always an experience. We have gotten to know the couple that runs the center pretty well. The wife is so sweet and adorable. She is also pretty young so she really relates to us. They are always very welcoming and kind to us. As usual the Soul Center brings in a diverse and very interesting crowd. The topic of the evening was March Madness and it was even related to the Torah portion! The dinner was full of singing and celebration the perfect first glimpse of Israel for Jonathan and Gabby. 

Saturday we took Jonathan and Gabby to the Old City. The Arab quarter was bustling so we looked at the shops and ended at the Kotel. The Old City is nice on Shabbat because it is not that crowded and it is very quiet. We then headed to a park and spent the rest of the day laying outside and people watching. One of Marissa and Jonathan's friends from high school moved to Israel and joined the army 4 years ago and so he came and spent the day with us. As usual Shabbat was relaxing and the perfect end to the week. We also found the one of the only non Kosher restaurants in Jerusalem. I ordered a huge cheeseburger and enjoyed every bite! It was easily one of the best burgers I have ever had thanks to not eating a cheeseburger for over 2 months. 

Sunday we took them to out favorite brunch place Kadosh. I love this restaurant! It is a dairy restaurant so lots of cheeses, breads, salads and vegetables. We then took them to the Shuk for their first time, stopping by our favorite bakery to buy Ruglach. Ruglach is my favorite Israeli dessert! 

Sunday night I stayed up and watched the UNC game. It was so sad and I'm pretty sure my Israeli roommate thinks someone in my family died. I refuse to talk to the other students on our program who go to Kansas until after the tournament is over. 

Today my Archeology class went on a field trip to the Israel Museum. The have a mini replica of the Old CIty as it would have looked during the 2nd Temple era. It was really neat to see all the places we had been studying and to be able to imagine the Temple and the Temple Mount. We saw about 500 ancient water vessels, which my Mom and Dad know are my favorite. We focused  mostly on artifacts from post the 2nd Temple Era. So we saw lots of Roman artifacts and ancient statues of different Roman rulers and generals. The museum is huge and so we only saw a very small portion. 

For Pesach break Marissa and I are traveling Israel from top to bottom for two weeks! I can't wait! And it is officially Pesach break and I have finished with Mid Terms! Mazel Tov! I am so excited for my next two weeks of traveling! 

xoxo, 

Katy Ann

ps. I posted new pictures! 




March 22, 2012

Spring Time!

This week has been full of everyone studying for Midterms. Luckily UNC counts all my credits as pass/fail so I only have to pass my classes to get full credit. Plus the classes here are much easier than UNC. But everyone else it not so lucky some of my friends have been stressing and I have been enjoying the nice weather. 


 Yesterday Jacki and I took the train to the Shuk to buy food for the next few days. Mid-ride the train stopped and announced there would be a delay before continuing. A few minutes later we were evacuated from the bus because of a "suspicious package" that Israeli security treats as a bomb threat. I was so annoyed that not only did I not get my grocery shopping finished for the week but I had to walk back 45 minutes to my apartment. As I was complaining to Jacki we both decided we should be thankful that we are not on a train that could be very dangerous. Plus the walk was nice even through my bitterness. Only in Israel would this be a daily occurrence. Israel is very good at keeping their citizens safe. 


Sunday night I went out with my friends to an Ethiopian restaurant. Lots of Ethiopian Jews live in Israel and so the food was very authentic. We ate the meal with our hands and it was fine but nothing amazing. After dinner Jacki and I were walking back and stopped at the most American bar in town. We ordered french fries and chicken fingers. We were cultured out. After being here for 2 months I miss BBQ and American pizza. 2 things not found in Israel. Although Israeli food is great, sometimes you just need a little America. 


This week in class we discussed the problems posed by Palestinian refugees. The conversation had support from both sides of the argument. At the end of the discussion my professor said, "Wouldn't it be nice if the leaders could just have a conversation like this." Although we did not come close to a solution, just talking to each other helped us see the other's side. In one of the last negations between the PLO and Israel in September the leaders who were negotiating refused to even meet in the same room. Each leader was on a separate floor of the hotel and a messenger would go back and forth to relay the information. The absolute most ridiculous thing I have ever heard from both sides. At least sit in the same room as each other! 


Three days ago a tragedy occurred in France when 3 children and a Rabbi were shot in a school shooting. The bodies were brought home to Jerusalem to be buried in the Jewish homeland. The entire city of Jerusalem mourned this horrific tragedy and hearts were heavy. 


Marissa, Jacki and I went into town to do homework, which ended up us finding the cutest coffee/book store in the world and spent the afternoon laughing and talking. We even made friends with the owner and met his adorable 4-year-old daughter who told us she was a princess. It is a perfect day in the Jerusalem sun! Spring has finally arrived! All the rain we suffered through has paid off because now everything is covered in lush greens and beautiful blooming flowers. I live in a beautiful city! 


 xoxo,


Katy Ann

March 17, 2012

Masada and The Dead Sea


I've been in Israel for just over 2 months. It seems so crazy to me that 2 months ago I didn't know the people who are in my life now. I have made amazing friends who I know will stay in my life. Milia said yesterday, "I came looking for fun and found a family instead."

Milia's parents are in town and hosted us Wednesday night for a wonderful evening. Starting at a bar on their hotel rooftop overlooking the entire Old City. Then they took us to a wonderful dinner. We did not even realize it was almost midnight when we finally left the restaurant. A lovely evening and by far the classiest thing we have done in Israel! 

Friday I went with Milia's parents to the Dead Sea and Masada. We drove through the Negev desert for about an hour taking in the beautiful scenery and high sandy cliffs. I had yet to visit this part of the country so I was very excited. We saw where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found and finally arrived at Masada. Masada was one of King Herod's palaces which was later used as a refuge for the Jews that rebelled against the Romans after the Romans destroyed the 2nd Temple. The story goes that that about 1,000 Jews lived at Masada while the Romans below took siege. The Romans built a ramp up the side of the mountain in order to capture the Jews. The last night the Jews living in Masada made the decision that instead of living as slaves or being killed by the Romans they would kill themselves. And so the men of each household killed his wife and children. Then lots were drawn over who would have to turn their knife upon themselves. When the Romans arrived the next morning to capture all the Jews they found the entire population dead. 

Milia, her Dad and I hiked to the top enjoying the views of the Dead Sea and desert along the way. Once at the top you could see all the way to Jordan on one side and all the way to Jerusalem on the other. We toured around the top listening to the history from our tour guide. The Roman siege wall, ramp and camps can still be seen from the top. The palace itself has been restored by archeologists but a lot of the area was still in tact from a thousand years ago. 

We then headed to the Dead Sea! The water is so salty that you can float! The water feels thick but it makes your skin feel great. We covered ourselves in the Dead Sea mud which made for some really funny pictures. We spent the day floating in the Dead Sea laughing. One women near us could not swim so she was so nervous about getting in but eventually realized how easily you could just float. We also sat in the natural warm mineral springs because it was still pretty cold. After we left my skin felt like a babies' butt! So soft and glowing! 

We hurried back to Jerusalem in time for Shabbat. I went to Shabbat dinner at my Orthodox friend Rivki's house. Her husband was out of town so it was only girls which was really fun. The food was fabulous and Rivki is so spunky and lively. Rivki breaks a lot of the normal stereotypes of an Orthodox women. The dinner was fabulous and I had a great time! 

As part of my Foreign Policy class I have to write a research paper and I have decided to write on the Settlements in the West Bank. I used to think settlements were only for crazy politically charged people but some of my favorite Israelis live in settlements. I decided I needed to learn a lot more before I could make an opinion for myself. 

It was a busy few days and I am thankful for Shabbat so I can rest up for the upcoming week! Mid Terms start soon and then Passover break! 

Shabbat Shalom!

xoxo, 

Katy Ann 

March 14, 2012

The Iron Dome


So far this week has been totally normal for me but unfortunately not for all Israelis. Starting last Thursday there was a major increase in violence in the South that resulted in over 222 missiles being launched from Gaza into Israel. 13% of Israeli's spent the weekend in bomb shelters to avoid the missiles. It is such a hard situation because if Israel were to invade Gaza and stop the bombing the international community would be angered and it would hurt any sort of peace negations to come. I tried to think about what the US would do if we were bombed by 222 missiles and I know the reaction would be very different from Israel. It is not that Israel in incapable of invading Gaza and ending the violence it is just the ramifications that will follow.  The conflict is so complicated.

The reason behind the missile attack this weekend was in response to Israel killing Zuhair al-Qaissi. Zuhair al-Qaissa was the commander of the group who abducted an Israeli solider Gilad Schalit (a whole other story). Another issue is the internal conflict going on between Hamas and the Islamic Jihad over the control of Gaza. Right now Hamas is in control but the Islamic Jihad claims to be in control of the attack. But some people think Hamas is actually responsible. As you see this is SO COMPLICATED. We have all been keeping up with the news a little more closely this week. Here is a link from the Israeli Defense Force explaining the attacks on Israel. Keep in mind it is a little slanted.
http://www.idfblog.com/2012/03/10/israel-under-fire-gaza/ 
But a cease fire has been called with Egypt mediating. It did surprise me to hear the the international media was hardly covering the events occurring. The whole situation is one big back and forth argument. The only problem is lives have been lost. I have a major problem with people who are so Pro-Israel or so Pro-Palestine because they only see the small picture and forget that so many people are effected. Everyone should be Pro-People if peace is ever going to come to the Middle East. 

Although all this violence does exist life still goes on as normal. Our travel plans to the South have been postponed but nothing major has happened to us expect worrying about our friends in the Army and in the places being attacked. One Israeli even told us "Just take a plane to the South because the plane flies higher than the missiles." As you see Israeli's are very used to all the violence and simply adjust plans. One major defense used by Israel is the "Iron Dome." I'm not sure why we have decided this is hilarious but everyone talks about the almighty Iron Dome and it cracks us all up. They actually have 3 Iron Domes and are hoping to get a 4th soon. I am thankful for the Iron Dome because it has intercepted a lot of missiles from Gaza. 

I know this all sounds scary but don't worry because I live in Jerusalem. Not only is it about 2 hours from the missiles but no one will bomb Jerusalem. The Dome of the Rock is the 3rd holiest sites in Islam and therefore no Muslim country or organization is willing to destroy such a sacred place. 

On Monday night we tried to catch the train but it had been evacuated after a 'suspicious package' was found aboard. I think back to the first few weeks here and think how scared I would have been then. But now we gripped about having to pay for a cab and still went downtown, hardly batting an eye. Today I even complained about tourists clogging up downtown when I was trying to get to the market. I have gone from a tourist to a local in two months! Of course my Israeli friends would most definitely disagree because they think I am the most American person in the world. 

Both of Milia's and Marissa's parents are visiting! It has been so nice to have a mom around for the week. Plus going out to dinner has been great too! Monday night we took the Mom's with us to the Orthodox Karaoke bar. As usual we had a great time singing and meeting Orthodox women. Then I spent Tuesday afternoon downtown sipping coffee, reading and people watching. I love to people watch here because anything goes. You can see an Orthodox women completely covered, an Arab women wearing a Hijab, a monk, soldiers and then an Israeli teenage girl wearing a cute sundress. I have never seen such a diverse population is such a small area. 

One thing I've learned from Israeli's is you live for the moment because you don't know what tomorrow will bring. I love it! It makes everyday adventurous. I have been here for 2 months and I can not even fathom the amount of information I have learned. Not just Hebrew or Foreign Policy from class but the culture and lifestyle of the people around me. 


xoxo, 

Katy Ann 

March 10, 2012

Purim!


The greatest part about Judaism is the fabulous and many holidays. Jews living around the world never get to celebrate quite like those in Israel. This week was Purim and oh did the Israelis celebrate. 

The story of Purim comes from the Book of Ester in the Torah. Here is the abbreviated story as I would tell it. King Ahasuerus has a party where he gets drunk and dethrones his wife. He then wanted a new queen so he ordered all the young women to present themselves in an ancient style beauty contest. Ester won the contest and becomes queen not revealing that she was Jewish. Ester's Uncle is Mordecai who saves the King from being murdered. The King's sidekick Haman does not like Mordecai and finds out he is Jewish, then he decides he wants to kill all the Jews. Ester ends up saving the Jews by convincing the King to let them live and to kill Haman. Only would Jews have a huge celebration for not being killed. Jews summarize this holiday and most of the other holidays with the simple saying, "They tried to kill us. We survived. Let's eat."

Part of the Purim tradition is to complete the 4 Mitsvahs during the holiday. They are: 
1. Listen to the Megillah Reading (the reading of the book of Ester)
2. Giving Mishloach Manot (Giving gifts of food to your friends)
3. Giving Matanot la'evyonim (giving charity to the poor)
4. Partying 

And thus set the stage for our crazy adventurers Purim adventures. On Wednesday night we all dressed up and headed for Tel Aviv. The normal Purim was Wednesday night and Thursday day but since Jerusalem is a city with a wall around it Purim is a day later. I asked people why this was and no one had a clue. The streets of Tel Aviv were filled with people dressed up and dancing everywhere. We spent the night wondering the streets dancing! In the morning we put back on our costumes and continued the party at the beach. We spent the day at the beach meeting Israelis, soaking up the sun and celebrating that the Jews were still alive! Then we headed back to Jerusalem for  the 2nd night of Purim. 

We added more glitter to our costumes and headed into town! Hebrew University sponsored a party in a parking deck. It sounds so weird but it was a blast! They turned the parking deck into a club and it was packed! We danced the night away and continued the party as we wondered the streets. It is sort of like a Jewish Mardi Gras!  

The next day we woke up and headed for the Old City. We found a drum circle which of course we danced in the middle of! We wondered the cobblestone streets as all of Jerusalem was out celebrating with us. As we were walking past a home the family invited us in where we continued to celebrate. Only in Israeli would you just go into random homes for dinner and celebrations. 

We finally arrived back home and I have never been happier for Shabbat. We all made dinner together before crashing for the next 12 hours. Purim is a cross between Halloween and Mardi Gras with the Israeli spirit. It was a crazy 72 hours that you can not experience anywhere else but Israel. 

Although Purim was the major event of the week I still did so much more stuff! Earlier in the week my class went on a field trip to Heordion's Castle that Herod built. It is also the cite of his tomb. It is located in the West Bank but under Israeli control so our school required we take an armored bus. The views from the top were wonderful and you could see the Dead Sea and Jordan. It was really cool to learn about something in class and then the next day go visit. 

Monday night I baked Hamantaschen at an Orthodox woman's house. The Orthodox woman's name is Stacy and we had a blast baking and seeing all her kid's Purim costumes. Plus we got to eat the delicious cookies. The cookies have a  shortbread base that are filled with fruit and chocolate filling. They turned out great and she gave me her recipe. After baking Marissa and I met our other Orthodox "Mama" for a karaoke night. We were a little skeptical about what it was going to be like but we figured we had nothing to lose. The bar was ladies only and filled with Orthodox women. It was a blast and we were both surprised how much fun we had dancing and singing with all the Orthodox women. It was definitely different but still a lot of fun. 

This week was filled with glitter, excitement and lots of adventures. Purim is making its way to my favorite holiday and I will be celebrating next year! 

Shabbat Shalom!

xoxo, 

Katy Ann 

ps. I posted more pictures on shutter fly!  

March 2, 2012

Snow Day!


This past weekend two Palestinians were killed at checkpoints in the West Bank. There have been many protests and riots around check points lately that lead to the deaths of the two Palestinians killed . It has caused some major tension around the city for the last week. My friend Sara was walking in a neighborhood over from where we live and a group of men started to throw rocks and fireworks. Immediately security and soldiers took action with stun guns until the situation was under control. It reminds all of us of as Sara put it, "How crazy this place can get." 

This past week has been filled with school work and getting used to not being on vacation. Everyone is adjusting to real school work and getting back in the swing of things. My classes are great but the more I learn about the conflict the more I think it is insolvable. I have come to the conclusion that this region never went to kindergarten. The concept my mom used to make us use when we were fighting over the last cookie was "You spilt, Mason chooses." Obviously the conflict is much more complicated than that but a little bit of sharing could go a long way. It has rained almost all week which in Israel means no one leaves their house. Since it does not rain often when it does rain everything is cancelled. 

This morning the entire city was covered with a layer of snow! Everyone was outside playing in the snow since it has been 4 years since the last time it snowed in Jerusalem. We all walked to a couple neighborhoods looking at the beautiful snow. We found an olive grove that was covered. And then the ambush started. Tons of kids started the epic snowball fight! We were in an Arab neighborhood and even the parents started to come out and join the snowball fight. We were outnumbered on all sides and ended with retreat, hands in the air a full surrender. But it was so fun playing with all the kids. Some things are very universal, like the joy of snowball fights. 

We went for an Israeli breakfast at my favorite restaurant in Jerusalem, Kadosh! They only serve dairy products to keep kosher but it was delicious. The Israeli breakfast is made of omelets, olives, all kinds of cheese, different types of breads, marinated mushrooms, eggplant, jams and salads. A huge spread of food which we happily gobbled down after our snowball fight. We sat beside an Israeli family and discussed American politics and the upcoming election. Israeli's are very concerned about the election because American politics effects them probably more than it effects the average American. If a US President decided not to support Israel, Israel would be in major trouble and they know this. The family was great and their daughter got to practice her english. The daughter loved American music especially Lady Gaga. They had bought tickets to see Madonna so as the Mom said, "We could show her who really was the better musician." We stayed all afternoon in the restaurant just soaking up the Israeli lifestyle.

Speaking of Madonna. There is a movement in Israel pressuring the Israeli government to not attack Iran until after the Madonna concert in May. A crazy idea but most Israeli's are more than willing to fight for their country they just want to enjoy Madonna before. Who would of thought Madonna could prevent a war in the Middle East. 

The city is gearing up for a peaceful and restful Shabbat in the snow. Although the snow was pretty I am ready for warm weather! 

Shabbat Shalom Y'all!

xoxo, 

Katy Ann